For two years, silence replaced celebration in Bethlehem. The occupied West Bank city, revered by Christians as the birthplace of Jesus, cancelled public Christmas festivities as war raged in Gaza and tourism collapsed.
This December, however, light returned to Manger Square. Following a recent ceasefire, the city switched on its traditional giant Christmas tree beside the ancient Church of the Nativity, marking a symbolic return to public celebration.
“It’s been a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work,” Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati said. “We’re all living here from tourism and tourism was down to zero.”
The decision was not without controversy. With suffering continuing in Gaza, including among its small Christian community with close ties to Bethlehem, some questioned the appropriateness of resuming festivities.
“Some may say it’s not appropriate and others say it is,” Mr Canawati said. “But deep inside my heart, I felt this was the right thing to do. Christmas should never be stopped. This is the light of hope for us.”
On Manger Square, locals posed for selfies beneath red and gold baubles. Both Christians and Muslims gathered around the tree, joined by a small number of foreign pilgrims and visitors returning cautiously to the city.
Bright lights now line the streets. Posters advertise Christmas bazaars, children’s parties and religious celebrations, creating a contrast to the austerity that has defined recent years.
Jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun described the atmosphere as deeply emotional. “We’re very happy to have the tree and to see foreigners again,” she said. “This is where Christmas started, and from here we can send a message of peace.”
Neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also preparing to light Christmas trees. Hotels that stood empty for much of the war are recording new bookings, mainly from Palestinian citizens of Israel and a limited number of foreign tourists.
Angelica, a Russian pilgrim visiting Bethlehem for the second time, said the absence of crowds was striking. “It’s sad without many tourists,” she said. “But it’s peaceful. Before, you had to wait for hours.”
Despite the optimism, much of Bethlehem’s economy remains paralysed. Souvenir shops see little footfall, while tour guides linger outside the Nativity Church, once packed with pilgrims.
“This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life,” said Hamza, a local guide. He worries ongoing news coverage deters visitors, despite his insistence that the city is safe.
Unemployment has soared since October 2023, when Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel triggered the Gaza war. Tens of thousands of West Bank Palestinians have since been barred from working in Israel and its settlements.
Meanwhile, public servants employed by the Palestinian Authority have received only partial salaries. According to the United Nations, Israel is withholding $1.76 billion in tax revenues collected on the PA’s behalf.
Israel says the funds are frozen because of payments made by the PA to Palestinian prisoners, which it argues encourage violence. The authority says it has reformed its welfare system.
For many Palestinian Christians, the return of Christmas is largely symbolic. At the edge of Manger Square, customers queued at falafel stalls, a reminder of constrained household budgets.
“We’re preparing for Christmas after one of our hardest periods,” said Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant. He said some families recently struggled to afford even cheap meals.
“Christians will try to celebrate, but according to their situation,” he said. “Many don’t have money for festivals or outings for their children.”
Inside the Nativity Church, quiet moments of devotion continued. Visitors stooped to touch the silver star marking where Christians believe Jesus was born, lighting candles and offering prayers for peace.
As Bethlehem cautiously celebrates again, residents hope the lights on Manger Square signal not only the return of Christmas, but the revival of a city long sustained by faith, visitors and hope.
This article was created using automation technology and was thoroughly edited and fact-checked by one of our editorial staff members